Tiber River There isn't much green space in the center of Rome, but we were delighted to be able to experience walking around the piazzas and streets without traffic and bustle. Tourists were out in force, but Romans are still on holiday post-Christmas, with many shops closed, and it seemed, many more streets closed to traffic than usual. Perhaps motorcycles and scooters, as well as cars, are actually banned now from pedestrian zones? Or maybe this is just the post-Christmas lull. Our last visit, in 2001, had us escaping the chaos after two days. (We had planned four). Interesting. But, today, the Piazza Navona was filled with a Christmas market, complete with chestnut roasters (Middle Eastern fellows roasting chestnuts from bags delivered in small trucks). Quite pleasant. Rambling was wonderful, without pedestrian-threatening scooters and little traffic. We enjoyed some delicious pizza in Trastevere -- locals were standing in line. There were actually some arugula and eggplant...